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Monday, March 19, 2007

1001 Arabian Nights: The Night Watchman's Tale 

This is a strange one, because this post covers three nights and three different venues. I thought the nightlife deserved a bit of a mention because otherwise I would just tack on "...and we went clubbing" at the end of what are already pretty long winded posts.

The Skyview Bar, Burj al Arab
...yikes.

First, the most disappointing and tacky one of them all, the Skyview only merits a mention because it is the little projecting structure that sits at the very top of the Burj hotel. We were allowed entry to the "seven star hotel" and, to be honest, I was completely disappointed. A billionaire's idea of luxury, perhaps. Definitely not understated, the hotel was covered in dark marble and gold, with neon lights cascading and a musical fountain in the center courtyard. Up the elevator to the Skyview, and it was more of the same. We couldn't even look out at the water that night (there were few lights, and the floor to ceiling glass was reflective and threw back only reflections of our fellow poseurs). We swigged our overpriced chocolate martini and got out off there double quick.

The Apartment, Jumeirah Beach Hotel

This was the venue for the company drinks, right after the company meeting day. I came late thanks to my dalliance with the Skyview, and was dismayed to find a cover charge even though we had booked the VIP room. Luckily I was able to blag my way past the clipboard lady from Tondo, and into... a mass exodus of consultants. Turns out plenty of our number decided that sweaty, crowded teenagers pulsating to (not very good) R&B and hiphop was Just Not Their Thing. I left with the crowd, and came back here after we were kicked out at closing by the fat bouncer at 360. Had enough time for a couple of drinks and a smoke, then, amazingly, got kicked out at 3 by the same fat bouncer. Serendipity, Randel and I agreed. Rather pleasingly, he recognized us from earlier. The Apartment was meant to be one of Dubai's hottest night spots. To be honest, it wasn't as bad as they said it was, but inside I could have been in any anonymous club in central London. I'm sure the old BBC crowd would have loved it - shame about the closing time.

360, Jumeirah Beach

Ahh, 360. The vibe was Ibiza's, the view was 100% Dubai. A golf cart takes you across a slender ribbon of concrete to the entrance queue. Flash your best smile at security (or grab a random partner if it's couple's night), and waltz right in. Inside you'll find extremely danceable tunes pumping from the mezzanine, couches and bean bags to welcome your tired ass and buckets of champagne. Of course, the omnipresent shisha pipes are there as well. You can either sit and chill or take your chances at the upper level bar; either way you'll be glad you ditched the tired pretentiousness of the other clubs. I know we were. Over the course of our stay I managed to come to 360 three nights in a row (sad but true - I failed to score a bean bag on any of those nights). Each time all I had to do was look out over the water back to the lights of Jumeirah, lift my glass, and be thankful I was there.

the view from the upper bar @ 360

Almost as good as being there, was walking home. Invariably we'd stay until fat bouncers asked us to leave, then we would take the slow way home; the sea on either side of us, yachts and lights and luxury, and we were there, in the center of it all, slightly drunk and footsore. Nights like this, well.

* * *

regular service re-commences tomorrow. Dubai can wait; I've had enough travelogging for now.

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